Ich bin ein...

From Belgium, the plan was to head into Germany, Berlin specifically. Unfortunately, try as I might, I could not find a direct route from Brussels to Berlin. Thus came unplanned stop #2. I caught a train from Brussels to Cologne. Why Cologne you ask? Well, uh, ...it cost less? I had wanted to go to the Black Forest, but connections were less frequent and given the extremely high price of train travel in Germany, I didn't think I could pull it off.

I decided to stay for two nights in Cologne because at this point in the trip I was getting quite tired of the one night stops. It made it difficult to get enough sleep, plus you had to deal with the hassle of check in/out and luggage storage/retrieval every day. It turned out though, there wasn't much in Cologne to do for two full days. Though a fairly large city area, the architecture was underwhelming and the history less than inspiring. There was however, an amazing cathedral there, referred to as the Dom. Since I arrived on Sunday I was able to attend mass and the choir service afterwards. Despite not understanding the homily or the hymns we sang, taking time out from the constant motion and reflecting with believers from another part of the world was a very renewing experience.

Other highlights were doing laundry at a combination laundromat/lounge/snowboarding store and meeting someone from my recent home town of Chicago. Chatting with Jim confirmed what me and other friends have said about Chicago, that it really is a small town. Despite the fact that we lived in separate areas we knew many of the same hangouts and watering holes and spent quite a bit of time in the same circles back home. It did make me a bit homesick for the times my roommates and I knocked back pints at the Inner Town Pub or The Club Foot, complaining about our students. Then I went to Berlin.

Belgium and Beyond

From Paris I caught a bus, which was about 20% the price of the train. I thought it was a great deal until we started to leave Paris and it became apparent that the driver didn't know how to get out of the city. It's always a bad sign when a passenger has to get out of their seat and give the driver directions.
Once on the motor way, we had relatively few incidents and arrived close to on time. I couldn't get a room in Brussels for the first night, so I flipped the stops and headed to Antwerp. This proved to be a great decision as it was the home of the second best hostel I stayed in and had an amazing vibe. It was such a cool place that I knew I would stay another night as soon as I stepped out of the metro. The place I stayed was called De Heksenketel, and was the most chaotic yet charming hostel I have seen. It was really a pub with two dorm rooms on the floors above. Half the bathrooms were outside, and there was Flemish folk music playing until 4 in the bar, but the folks staying there were super nice and enjoyed playing new card games. The owner was also incredibly accommodating. Even though I didn't have a reservation for the second night, he worked it out for me to stay despite it being totally booked, by making room for me in his employees' quarters.
As for the town itself, it was one of the most aesthetically pleasing places that I visited, with cobblestones, a river view and little car traffic. The big landmark was the cathedral of our lady located in the center of the city and featuring several Rubens paintings. There was also the Grote Markt, lined by guild halls and centered on the Brabo fountain. Perhaps most important were the culinary selections. The traditional foods included amazing french fries, Brilliant chocolate, the best beer in the world and of course, Belgian waffles. With all these options readily available, I found it hard to believe the Belgian folks weren't each the size of a small Corolla. I definitely put on a pound or two while I was there.
Beyond the food and the surroundings, I found Antwerp to simply have a very laid back and open way about it. It was a good break after the massiveness of Paris. Great for meeting people, and perfect for a stroll around on your own, and exploring used record stores.
After my second night, I went back to Brussels. I only had the evening there, since I stayed back in Antwerp for as long as I could. It worked out well though, as there wasn't a whole lot to see in Brussels. The biggest draws were the Grote Markt square, similar to the one in Antwerp, but on a much grander scale, with incredibly opulent guild halls, and the Mannequin Pis, which is as weird as it sounds. What else did I do while I was there? More fries and chocolate of course.
All in all, Belgium was one of my favorite stops. The food, culture and surroundings all made for an amazing place. I'd like to get back there at some point soon.

Francophone Extravaganza

While I was in England, both my cousin and my friend from Bath, who had studied in Switzerland, told me I had to visit Lucerne. Never one to turn down free advice, I canceled my plan to head to Bern (the capital city) after Basel, and made my way slightly further east to Lucerne. I have to say, they were right. Even though the hostel was quite a ways outside the city and it took me half a day to find it, it was one of the most picturesque stops on my tour. There was a river running through the heart of the town and a walled "old town" with walls and gates still left from some time ago. There were also several footbridges stretching across the river, offering splendid views of both the architecture and sunset. Since I only had one night there, I spent most of my time taking in the sights, and snapping pictures. It was also where I picked up the obligatory swiss army knife.
Bright and early the next morning, I was on a train and heading to Geneva. This was one of my more tense arrivals as I was supposed to stay with friends of a friend, but had not yet made contact. I decided to try a hostel instead when I got there, but unfortunately they were booked. At this point I was sweating a bit, but decided to check my e-mail one more time at the hostel, and thankfully, I had an e-mail awaiting me from my hosts-to-be. It all worked out and the family I stayed with were wonderful people. I somehow didn't get a picture of them, but I do have one of their cat...
There wasn't a lot to see in Geneva proper. Things I did see included Jon Calvin's old church, huge chess boards and Lac Lemon. I spent my full day in semi-nearby Montreux checking out Chateau de Chillion. A castle with lots of history and an unsurpassed view. Pictures of all these things can of course be seen if you follow the links to panoramio and picasa on the right.
Switzerland was a nice place to be at this point in the trip. Its famed organization and precision allowed me to have a tight schedule and quick stops without much of a problem. It was also fairly laid back, which along with all the scenery made it a pretty relaxing stop. The people, though friendly, were not particularly outgoing. There's a bit more of a reserved nature there, and it takes time to get to know the folks. If my experience is any indication though, the time is very worthwhile.
From Geneva I caught the TGV to Paris. With my schedule and budget, I didn't have the opportunity to explore France, but I at least wanted to make a stop in the capital. Especially after all the historical study I did during my time at NU. My plan was to spend a minimal time at the landmarks, and try to really get a feel for the urban fabric of the town. Spending time on the famed boulevards, and in the cafes was the priority. As they say though, "the best laid plans of mice and men go oft awry." I didn't realize the sheer magnitude of the city, and much like London was hustling from place to place nearly non-stop. From museums to monuments and all the metro stations in between, I saw them. I think sticking to these places also gave me a bit of a stilted view of the city as it seemed like the place was constantly crawling with tourists. I even started seeing the same tourists over again. Even smaller neighborhoods like Montmartre were full of Non-Parisians and the shops and restaurants that would cater to them.
Paris was one the site of my most random moment on the trip. I was making my way to the Mona Lisa in the Louvre, and ran into a graduate student who I had taken a seminar with back at NU and was married to one my TAs. We hadn't seen each other in quite some time, adding to the surprise. We caught up a bit and discussed education plans etc. It was a bit of home in the middle of a European capital.
Highlights included the Centre Pompidou, views from Montmartre, the new French architecture museum, a scooter ride during evening rush hour and of course the Eiffel tower.
Disappointment: The cathedral of Notre Dame. It was in a horrible state of disrepair, with tools, building materials and other objects laying all over.
Next to Berlin, Paris is the city I would most like to return to. Despite the frequently snooty conduct of most of the Parisians and hordes of visitors, I would like an opportunity to actually adhere to my original plan for experiencing the city.

Pricey old England

After Bath I made my way across the south of Britain to an old classmate's place in Brighton. I was based there while I was checking out London. I was really grateful at that point in the trip for a break from hostels, especially since the big-city hostels are often massive and rather impersonal. It was also nice to catch up with an old friend. The fact that she liked to cook was an added bonus :-)
There is so much I could say about the city itself. It was the closest I've seen to New York in terms of scale, activity and wealth. It was absolutely massive and you really had to budget time to even scratch the surface. There were enough museums alone to keep you occupied for an entire trip. I only had four days however, so I had to be selective. The museums I did see were some of the best in Europe though. The British museum had an indescribable wealth of artifacts, most amazing of which was the Rosetta stone. Something like that was incredible to see after years of reading about it in school and library books. The Tate modern was also a tremendous experience. Even the floor was part of the art. The war cabinet rooms and bunker were also very interesting and steeped in history. It provided a palpable sense of what members of that generation had to deal with every day. I spent the last day out in Cambridge at the university. It was a very beautiful place, despite the pouring rain, with immaculate lawns and historic buildings everywhere you looked. I was able to go to an evening vespers service at one of the chapels sung by one of the boys choirs there, a very neat experience in itself.
I also made time for all the usual sites. Buckingham palace, tower bridge, Westminster abbey, Big Ben, Hyde Park, real Fish and chips and a walk along the Thames. Unfortunately I wasn't able to go into the palace or tower of London since they cost a staggering 14 pounds each. At $2.14 per it made this and just about everything else there very expensive. Even just the trains set me back over 20 pounds a day. Despite the financial hemorrhaging though, I was really glad I finally made it. Hopefully there will be another trip there in the future.
After London I had an appointment with Easy Jet (one of the few British things that doesn't cost that much) to fly me to Basel Switzerland. I was to arrive just in time for the U.S. v. Switzerland Soccer friendly. It was an adventure surrounded in mishap, including not getting the tickets until the day of the game, discovering the seats were behind a security barrier, and sitting in the pouring rain. We won however, 1-0, so that of course made it all worth it. I was a bit lucky to be there since American wins in Europe come about as often as Halley's comet.
Basel itself was a nice town, but not spectacular. The city hall had some interesting frescoes and there was a pretty center. More notably was my thankfulness for the famous Swiss precision that helped me get to the game on time, and the fact that it was the first and only place I have seen Cadillac taxi cabs.

Ireland continued...

I had two more stops over in Ireland. First I took a bus to the West coast for a visit in Galway. Second was a stop south, in Cork.
Unfortunately there is not much to say about the city of Galway itself. It was a university town with lots of bars, clubs etc, and not exactly the vibrant cultural center my guide book made it out to be. Fortunately though, it was near two of Ireland's most famous natural landmarks, the Aran Islands and the Cliffs of More. I only had time for one, and since the islands had cliffs on them, I took the ferry across and rented a bike on the biggest island, Inishmore. The views were absolutely breathtaking and well worth the trip. Aside from the natural rock formations and sea views, there were ruins all over of different churches and such. There was also an old Celtic fort which was supposedly from Roman times. It was built only as a crescent with the back side of the fort being the high point on the cliffs.
I inched out over the edge on my belly and took a video clip with my camera:





Not much, but I tried.
Other highlights were miles of stone walls, rolling green hills, talking to old farmers who didn't really speak English and Teampall Bheanain, purportedly the smallest church in the world. All in all, very cool. There are of course pictures on Picasa. If I were to do it over I would have skipped Dublin, spent the extra time out here, and stayed in a smaller town such as Doolin. More time for scenery and less drunken tourists.
After another bus ride I stopped down in Cork. I had a quick turnaround there since I had to fly out the next day to Bristol. I had enough time to get a feel for the town though, and what I saw, I liked. It seemed fairly untouched by all the tourist hordes of other cities. There was much more of a natural feel about its streets, shops and people. They hadn't been converted into junk shops and things like that. It had managed to reap the benefits of the thriving Celtic economy and retain its soul. Highlights included the very cool municipal art museum which was hosting exhibits on maps as art and other fine contemporary works. Also, it was the only spot on my trip where I was able to find Murphy's stout (in my opinion, better than Guinness).
There was also a very neat Gothic church and some more fine scenery.
From there was a stop in lovely Bath England. My cousin, Becky, and her husband, Sean have been living there for a few years now and just had a baby! I got to be the first one of my immediate family to see little Isla, and I even helped assemble a crib. I think I'm already her favorite second cousin.

In town there a couple very neat attractions. One was the Bath Abby, a stunning Anglican church, with amazing vaulted ceilings and angels climbing up and down the ladder to heaven on the facade. There was also the famous Roman baths, which had been excavated and had quite detailed and interesting displays. The gardens in Bath were beautiful as well. Apparently they have been retired from the national British competition for city gardens, for winning too many times. They are right on the river with a perfect scenic backdrop. Perhaps that's too much of a natural advantage.

This stop was definitely a highlight of the trip. It was great to get out of the hostels for a little bit and reconnect with family I hadn't seen in a while. Becky and Sean were amazing hosts even though they were dealing with a big new adjustment of their own. They fed me well and even let me do laundry, what could be better. :-)

A wee bit o' the Emerald Isle...

I wrote bits about my stop in Belfast already and hit the main highlights. It was a small and manageable place, which made it an ideal first stop. The hostel I stayed at was a great place as well. Because it was smaller and it wasn't overrun with the hordes of tourist that other places deal with, it was much more accessible. It was amazing to see how much progress has been made in the struggle to bring peace to a region that has been so torn apart. It was one of the most encouraging stops on my tour for that reason. I spoke with folks on the catholic side of things and a Brit while I was there and it was interesting to hear their perspective on it all. Surprisingly, the Republicans (Catholics) are quite amiable to British individuals, and it is the loyalists who are more hostile since they feel "sold out" by the peace process. The British guy I met and spent time with felt much more comfortable in the Catholic parts of town and even rented a room from a Catholic guy. Strange how politics can turn things on their heads sometimes.
Highlights and sight include the aforementioned stops on the black taxi tour, a hike around Belfast "castle" and Cave Hill, and a few pints at the famous Irish pubs. The "castle" proved to be a big house, but it was pretty. Cave Hill was situated above the "castle" and provided some really nice views of the city and the port. As for the pubs, I learned that Magner's cider is much better than Strongbow. Also, I think Murphy's is better than Guinness. Pictures of all of the above are on Picasa, in the appropriately named album: "Belfast."
Dublin was the next stop, and, unfortunately, disappointing. It was a good thing I only stayed one night there. There wasn't much in the way of culture or tradition, just hordes of tourists. The Temple Bar area, which is the center of town, was crowded with lots of middle aged folks trying to re-live their youthful indiscretions. You had to go quite a ways from the center to even find an authentic pub. I trekked a ways out to a place called the Stag's Head. Apparently James Joyce's old hangout. I paid my respects with a pint of Guinness and some writing.
There were some highlights. I enjoyed Christ Church and St. Patrick's Cathedral. The former contained a bit of macabre with the famous mummified cat and rat. The campus of Trinity College was beautiful as well, and housed the ancient Book of Kells. I also took a tour of the Guinness Store house. It was Brilliant! There are pics of these stops as well.