After Bath I made my way across the south of Britain to an old classmate's place in Brighton. I was based there while I was checking out London. I was really grateful at that point in the trip for a break from hostels, especially since the big-city hostels are often massive and rather impersonal. It was also nice to catch up with an old friend. The fact that she liked to cook was an added bonus :-)
There is so much I could say about the city itself. It was the closest I've seen to New York in terms of scale, activity and wealth. It was absolutely massive and you really had to budget time to even scratch the surface. There were enough museums alone to keep you occupied for an entire trip. I only had four days however, so I had to be selective. The museums I did see were some of the best in Europe though. The British museum had an indescribable wealth of artifacts, most amazing of which was the Rosetta stone. Something like that was incredible to see after years of reading about it in school and library books. The Tate modern was also a tremendous experience. Even the floor was part of the art. The war cabinet rooms and bunker were also very interesting and steeped in history. It provided a palpable sense of what members of that generation had to deal with every day. I spent the last day out in Cambridge at the university. It was a very beautiful place, despite the pouring rain, with immaculate lawns and historic buildings everywhere you looked. I was able to go to an evening vespers service at one of the chapels sung by one of the boys choirs there, a very neat experience in itself.
I also made time for all the usual sites. Buckingham palace, tower bridge, Westminster abbey, Big Ben, Hyde Park, real Fish and chips and a walk along the Thames. Unfortunately I wasn't able to go into the palace or tower of London since they cost a staggering 14 pounds each. At $2.14 per it made this and just about everything else there very expensive. Even just the trains set me back over 20 pounds a day. Despite the financial hemorrhaging though, I was really glad I finally made it. Hopefully there will be another trip there in the future.
After London I had an appointment with Easy Jet (one of the few British things that doesn't cost that much) to fly me to Basel Switzerland. I was to arrive just in time for the U.S. v. Switzerland Soccer friendly. It was an adventure surrounded in mishap, including not getting the tickets until the day of the game, discovering the seats were behind a security barrier, and sitting in the pouring rain. We won however, 1-0, so that of course made it all worth it. I was a bit lucky to be there since American wins in Europe come about as often as Halley's comet.
Basel itself was a nice town, but not spectacular. The city hall had some interesting frescoes and there was a pretty center. More notably was my thankfulness for the famous Swiss precision that helped me get to the game on time, and the fact that it was the first and only place I have seen Cadillac taxi cabs.
Monday, December 10, 2007
Friday, December 7, 2007
Ireland continued...
I had two more stops over in Ireland. First I took a bus to the West coast for a visit in Galway. Second was a stop south, in Cork.
Unfortunately there is not much to say about the city of Galway itself. It was a university town with lots of bars, clubs etc, and not exactly the vibrant cultural center my guide book made it out to be. Fortunately though, it was near two of Ireland's most famous natural landmarks, the Aran Islands and the Cliffs of More. I only had time for one, and since the islands had cliffs on them, I took the ferry across and rented a bike on the biggest island, Inishmore. The views were absolutely breathtaking and well worth the trip. Aside from the natural rock formations and sea views, there were ruins all over of different churches and such. There was also an old Celtic fort which was supposedly from Roman times. It was built only as a crescent with the back side of the fort being the high point on the cliffs.
I inched out over the edge on my belly and took a video clip with my camera:
Not much, but I tried.
Other highlights were miles of stone walls, rolling green hills, talking to old farmers who didn't really speak English and Teampall Bheanain, purportedly the smallest church in the world. All in all, very cool. There are of course pictures on Picasa. If I were to do it over I would have skipped Dublin, spent the extra time out here, and stayed in a smaller town such as Doolin. More time for scenery and less drunken tourists.
After another bus ride I stopped down in Cork. I had a quick turnaround there since I had to fly out the next day to Bristol. I had enough time to get a feel for the town though, and what I saw, I liked. It seemed fairly untouched by all the tourist hordes of other cities. There was much more of a natural feel about its streets, shops and people. They hadn't been converted into junk shops and things like that. It had managed to reap the benefits of the thriving Celtic economy and retain its soul. Highlights included the very cool municipal art museum which was hosting exhibits on maps as art and other fine contemporary works. Also, it was the only spot on my trip where I was able to find Murphy's stout (in my opinion, better than Guinness).
There was also a very neat Gothic church and some more fine scenery.
From there was a stop in lovely Bath England. My cousin, Becky, and her husband, Sean have been living there for a few years now and just had a baby! I got to be the first one of my immediate family to see little Isla, and I even helped assemble a crib. I think I'm already her favorite second cousin.
Unfortunately there is not much to say about the city of Galway itself. It was a university town with lots of bars, clubs etc, and not exactly the vibrant cultural center my guide book made it out to be. Fortunately though, it was near two of Ireland's most famous natural landmarks, the Aran Islands and the Cliffs of More. I only had time for one, and since the islands had cliffs on them, I took the ferry across and rented a bike on the biggest island, Inishmore. The views were absolutely breathtaking and well worth the trip. Aside from the natural rock formations and sea views, there were ruins all over of different churches and such. There was also an old Celtic fort which was supposedly from Roman times. It was built only as a crescent with the back side of the fort being the high point on the cliffs.
I inched out over the edge on my belly and took a video clip with my camera:
Not much, but I tried.
Other highlights were miles of stone walls, rolling green hills, talking to old farmers who didn't really speak English and Teampall Bheanain, purportedly the smallest church in the world. All in all, very cool. There are of course pictures on Picasa. If I were to do it over I would have skipped Dublin, spent the extra time out here, and stayed in a smaller town such as Doolin. More time for scenery and less drunken tourists.
After another bus ride I stopped down in Cork. I had a quick turnaround there since I had to fly out the next day to Bristol. I had enough time to get a feel for the town though, and what I saw, I liked. It seemed fairly untouched by all the tourist hordes of other cities. There was much more of a natural feel about its streets, shops and people. They hadn't been converted into junk shops and things like that. It had managed to reap the benefits of the thriving Celtic economy and retain its soul. Highlights included the very cool municipal art museum which was hosting exhibits on maps as art and other fine contemporary works. Also, it was the only spot on my trip where I was able to find Murphy's stout (in my opinion, better than Guinness).
There was also a very neat Gothic church and some more fine scenery.
From there was a stop in lovely Bath England. My cousin, Becky, and her husband, Sean have been living there for a few years now and just had a baby! I got to be the first one of my immediate family to see little Isla, and I even helped assemble a crib. I think I'm already her favorite second cousin.
In town there a couple very neat attractions. One was the Bath Abby, a stunning Anglican church, with amazing vaulted ceilings and angels climbing up and down the ladder to heaven on the facade. There was also the famous Roman baths, which had been excavated and had quite detailed and interesting displays. The gardens in Bath were beautiful as well. Apparently they have been retired from the national British competition for city gardens, for winning too many times. They are right on the river with a perfect scenic backdrop. Perhaps that's too much of a natural advantage.
This stop was definitely a highlight of the trip. It was great to get out of the hostels for a little bit and reconnect with family I hadn't seen in a while. Becky and Sean were amazing hosts even though they were dealing with a big new adjustment of their own. They fed me well and even let me do laundry, what could be better. :-)
Saturday, December 1, 2007
A wee bit o' the Emerald Isle...
I wrote bits about my stop in Belfast already and hit the main highlights. It was a small and manageable place, which made it an ideal first stop. The hostel I stayed at was a great place as well. Because it was smaller and it wasn't overrun with the hordes of tourist that other places deal with, it was much more accessible. It was amazing to see how much progress has been made in the struggle to bring peace to a region that has been so torn apart. It was one of the most encouraging stops on my tour for that reason. I spoke with folks on the catholic side of things and a Brit while I was there and it was interesting to hear their perspective on it all. Surprisingly, the Republicans (Catholics) are quite amiable to British individuals, and it is the loyalists who are more hostile since they feel "sold out" by the peace process. The British guy I met and spent time with felt much more comfortable in the Catholic parts of town and even rented a room from a Catholic guy. Strange how politics can turn things on their heads sometimes.
Highlights and sight include the aforementioned stops on the black taxi tour, a hike around Belfast "castle" and Cave Hill, and a few pints at the famous Irish pubs. The "castle" proved to be a big house, but it was pretty. Cave Hill was situated above the "castle" and provided some really nice views of the city and the port. As for the pubs, I learned that Magner's cider is much better than Strongbow. Also, I think Murphy's is better than Guinness. Pictures of all of the above are on Picasa, in the appropriately named album: "Belfast."
Dublin was the next stop, and, unfortunately, disappointing. It was a good thing I only stayed one night there. There wasn't much in the way of culture or tradition, just hordes of tourists. The Temple Bar area, which is the center of town, was crowded with lots of middle aged folks trying to re-live their youthful indiscretions. You had to go quite a ways from the center to even find an authentic pub. I trekked a ways out to a place called the Stag's Head. Apparently James Joyce's old hangout. I paid my respects with a pint of Guinness and some writing.
There were some highlights. I enjoyed Christ Church and St. Patrick's Cathedral. The former contained a bit of macabre with the famous mummified cat and rat. The campus of Trinity College was beautiful as well, and housed the ancient Book of Kells. I also took a tour of the Guinness Store house. It was Brilliant! There are pics of these stops as well.
Highlights and sight include the aforementioned stops on the black taxi tour, a hike around Belfast "castle" and Cave Hill, and a few pints at the famous Irish pubs. The "castle" proved to be a big house, but it was pretty. Cave Hill was situated above the "castle" and provided some really nice views of the city and the port. As for the pubs, I learned that Magner's cider is much better than Strongbow. Also, I think Murphy's is better than Guinness. Pictures of all of the above are on Picasa, in the appropriately named album: "Belfast."
Dublin was the next stop, and, unfortunately, disappointing. It was a good thing I only stayed one night there. There wasn't much in the way of culture or tradition, just hordes of tourists. The Temple Bar area, which is the center of town, was crowded with lots of middle aged folks trying to re-live their youthful indiscretions. You had to go quite a ways from the center to even find an authentic pub. I trekked a ways out to a place called the Stag's Head. Apparently James Joyce's old hangout. I paid my respects with a pint of Guinness and some writing.
There were some highlights. I enjoyed Christ Church and St. Patrick's Cathedral. The former contained a bit of macabre with the famous mummified cat and rat. The campus of Trinity College was beautiful as well, and housed the ancient Book of Kells. I also took a tour of the Guinness Store house. It was Brilliant! There are pics of these stops as well.
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Back in the USSR...
OK, not quite, but who doesn't appreciate a good Beatles reference every now and again? I am back in Sofia for the time being though. It's much as I left it (grumpy people, bad service and cheap pizza) but much colder. Not Chicago cold mind you, but cold. I suppose that was bound to happen.
A few of our Swiss friends are leaving to go back home, so there has been much in the way of going away dinners/get togethers etc. Other than that I have been flaking/resting up and getting back to the reading I told myself I would finish several months ago.
It has been quite a drastic change, going from living out of a backpack and sleeping in different places every couple nights, to a rather static existence once again. It has given me time to try and process a lot of the experiences and insights that I gained while out on the road. Surprisingly though, it's actually been tougher to do without busy days.
I'll be posting chunks of my trip over the next week or two. Impressions, pictures, specifics about places, favorite moments etc.
Initial things I've come to realize:
Placing yourself in so many different contexts allows you to see yourself from all kinds of different angles that you never would have imagined. Experiencing different cultures often lets you see qualities that you posses, or would like to posses as a person. The same with the constant interactions that you are having with strangers from all over the world. Allain De Botton in his book Architecture of Happiness, makes an intriguing argument that man's concept of aesthetic beauty is derived out of our ideals. Thus, architectural styles are implicitly or, often explicitly, intended to convey themes such as strength, honesty and dependability. I think, in some ways, this thought process can be applied to meta systems. As we experience different cultures and even personalities, we appreciate elements that embody qualities we strive for. That could be the laid back evenings in Roman cafes with friends or the incredible organization of German trains. It goes deeper than a simple appreciation, however. Beyond saying "I wish Amtrak didn't suck," it gives us an incredibly multi-faceted mirror for self reflection and introspection. If you are open and willing to be self critical, experiences abroad can be life changing indeed.
Second, even though I took 815 pictures, it wasn't nearly enough. I didn't get enough pictures of the people I met and stayed with along the way. In some cases this was due to the fact that photos are such an inadequate medium for capturing experience. I found that I often just wanted to capture the thoughts of different times and file them away, thus not having to worry about the lighting, iso settings, framing etc. Other times I just flaked out. I'll be posting any pictures that go along with my blog posts on Picasa. So check in there when you get a chance.
A few of our Swiss friends are leaving to go back home, so there has been much in the way of going away dinners/get togethers etc. Other than that I have been flaking/resting up and getting back to the reading I told myself I would finish several months ago.
It has been quite a drastic change, going from living out of a backpack and sleeping in different places every couple nights, to a rather static existence once again. It has given me time to try and process a lot of the experiences and insights that I gained while out on the road. Surprisingly though, it's actually been tougher to do without busy days.
I'll be posting chunks of my trip over the next week or two. Impressions, pictures, specifics about places, favorite moments etc.
Initial things I've come to realize:
Placing yourself in so many different contexts allows you to see yourself from all kinds of different angles that you never would have imagined. Experiencing different cultures often lets you see qualities that you posses, or would like to posses as a person. The same with the constant interactions that you are having with strangers from all over the world. Allain De Botton in his book Architecture of Happiness, makes an intriguing argument that man's concept of aesthetic beauty is derived out of our ideals. Thus, architectural styles are implicitly or, often explicitly, intended to convey themes such as strength, honesty and dependability. I think, in some ways, this thought process can be applied to meta systems. As we experience different cultures and even personalities, we appreciate elements that embody qualities we strive for. That could be the laid back evenings in Roman cafes with friends or the incredible organization of German trains. It goes deeper than a simple appreciation, however. Beyond saying "I wish Amtrak didn't suck," it gives us an incredibly multi-faceted mirror for self reflection and introspection. If you are open and willing to be self critical, experiences abroad can be life changing indeed.
Second, even though I took 815 pictures, it wasn't nearly enough. I didn't get enough pictures of the people I met and stayed with along the way. In some cases this was due to the fact that photos are such an inadequate medium for capturing experience. I found that I often just wanted to capture the thoughts of different times and file them away, thus not having to worry about the lighting, iso settings, framing etc. Other times I just flaked out. I'll be posting any pictures that go along with my blog posts on Picasa. So check in there when you get a chance.
Monday, November 12, 2007
I'm still alive
I am on the last portion of the current leg of the trip. Padova Italy currently, Venice tonight, Sicily Wed- Sun and Rome Sun night through Wed. Then back to good 'ol Sofia.
There's been a lot going on and a lot to talk about. It's been difficult to post since the cafe computers are very expensive and none will let me upload photos. I will be recapping various stops on this journey. Hopefully not all of my readers will have completely forgotten about this blog's existence. Until then.
There's been a lot going on and a lot to talk about. It's been difficult to post since the cafe computers are very expensive and none will let me upload photos. I will be recapping various stops on this journey. Hopefully not all of my readers will have completely forgotten about this blog's existence. Until then.
Sunday, October 7, 2007
First days in Ireland
I'm just in to Dublin today from Belfast. I had a three hour bus ride this afternoon. There are already stark differences. Belfast, even though it was a more working class and gritty town had a definite character and personality. Dublin thus far, doesn't. There are pretty areas near the center, and lots of pubs etc, but there's just not a sense of the people or anything else. Perhaps my thoughts are a bit premature since I've only been around the center so far, I'll have to write more after I see St. Patrick's and Christ church tomorrow.
Before leaving this morning a Dutch guy and I took a Black taxi tour. It took us around the city and gave us a look at the many different murals and tributes to heroes in the struggles. We also saw Sinn Fein headquarters, got to write on the peace wall and got a general history lesson about the different players in the conflict. It was a great way to wrap up after meeting many very cool people and a great hostel experience. Other than the Dutch guy, there were German, French, Aussie and Welsh folk and a Gent from West Yorkshire who was an English hippie and a professed moosist. You'll have to ask if you want an explanation.
I'm on to Gallway tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully I'll have more stories.
I'm trying to figure out a way to put pictures up as well. I don't have my laptop and these places generally frown on hooking things up to their pc's. I'll see what I can do.
Before leaving this morning a Dutch guy and I took a Black taxi tour. It took us around the city and gave us a look at the many different murals and tributes to heroes in the struggles. We also saw Sinn Fein headquarters, got to write on the peace wall and got a general history lesson about the different players in the conflict. It was a great way to wrap up after meeting many very cool people and a great hostel experience. Other than the Dutch guy, there were German, French, Aussie and Welsh folk and a Gent from West Yorkshire who was an English hippie and a professed moosist. You'll have to ask if you want an explanation.
I'm on to Gallway tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully I'll have more stories.
I'm trying to figure out a way to put pictures up as well. I don't have my laptop and these places generally frown on hooking things up to their pc's. I'll see what I can do.
Friday, October 5, 2007
Got to looove the Plov....
10 points to anyone who can get the Seinfeld reference in the post title....
I did go to Plovdiv this past weekend, or as our guidebook somewhat humorously named it "The Plov." It was a very cool city that apparently is a rival to Sofia for the cultural center of Bulgaria. The city has an "old town" section, and given that it is a contemporary with Troy, it's real old. There are a lot of ruins that date back to the Thracian times, cobblestone streets etc. It was well worth the trip out there.
Unfortunately, I can't post the pictures, since they are on my laptop some 2000 miles away. I landed in Belfast today via Rome and am beginning the first big excursion on this trip. Starting her in Northern Ireland, I'm heading through the Republic, Bath and London in the UK, Switzerland, Paris, Belgium, Germany, Poland, Austria, the Czech Republic Austria, and then Sicily. I'm going to try and keep posting at cafes like I am now. It'll all depend on availability etc however.
Some quick impressions of Belfast: It's a pretty gritty town save the center where there's a really neat Botanic garden and Queen's University . There are apparently some very old historic pubs etc that I'll be sure to check out as well. People seem to be friendly. The whole driving/walking on the left side is a surprising mind bender. Over/under on time it would take me to get in an accident: 5 min.
I did go to Plovdiv this past weekend, or as our guidebook somewhat humorously named it "The Plov." It was a very cool city that apparently is a rival to Sofia for the cultural center of Bulgaria. The city has an "old town" section, and given that it is a contemporary with Troy, it's real old. There are a lot of ruins that date back to the Thracian times, cobblestone streets etc. It was well worth the trip out there.
Unfortunately, I can't post the pictures, since they are on my laptop some 2000 miles away. I landed in Belfast today via Rome and am beginning the first big excursion on this trip. Starting her in Northern Ireland, I'm heading through the Republic, Bath and London in the UK, Switzerland, Paris, Belgium, Germany, Poland, Austria, the Czech Republic Austria, and then Sicily. I'm going to try and keep posting at cafes like I am now. It'll all depend on availability etc however.
Some quick impressions of Belfast: It's a pretty gritty town save the center where there's a really neat Botanic garden and Queen's University . There are apparently some very old historic pubs etc that I'll be sure to check out as well. People seem to be friendly. The whole driving/walking on the left side is a surprising mind bender. Over/under on time it would take me to get in an accident: 5 min.
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